Travel Guide: Beaune, 2023
Updated: November, 2023
With its cobbled streets, ancient relics and bubbling waterways, the town of Beaune feels like something out of a fairytale. Gourmet cheese mongers, haughty cavistes and terraced cafés give the walled “vieille-ville” all the more charming allure. Wandering the ancient core, with its narrow winding streets is a dreamy experience and one that draws plenty of tourists. Despite its small population (just over 20,000), Beaune is home to an impressive amount of bars and restaurants. Navigating where to go can be a real challenge. Here are a few tried and true addresses that I frequent often…
Marie Simon - Pâtisserie Beaune
Luxuriously thick, flakey, buttery croissants and pain au chocolates can be found here. Marie Simon was awarded Championne du monde des arts sucrés in 2018 at just 23 years old. Two years later, at 25, she opened her Pâtisserie in Beaune. Pick up a croissant in the morning and take an exquisite dessert or pint of artisanal ice cream (I recommend pistachio) for later in your day. The Pâtisserie also functions as a café.
2 Rue Marey, Beaune
Pain au Chocolate, Marie Simon
La Dilettante - Wine Bar
A local favourite, La Dilettante offers fresh tapas and a natural leaning wine list. Tables are pushed close together, and the atmosphere is cozy and relaxed. Lolo and Lyka, a French-Japanese husband and wife team, command the room with warmth and stellar wine recommendations. Must-try menu items include chicken karaage, carpaccio de boeuf and their fantastic charcuterie selection.
11 Rue du Faubourg Bretonnière, Beaune
La Lune - Dinner
Despite its central location, La Lune, with its unassuming exterior, can easily be missed. Although quaint, this Japanese/French fusion bar delivers masterful plates at a fraction of regular Beaune prices. Watch in awe as Chef Seiichi gracefully mans the entire kitchen, expertly crafting plate after dazzling plate, while Julien single-handedly manages all aspects of service. The two expertly run the show without a word of verbal communication - this seemingly effortless dance is almost as entertaining as the food. Reservations are recommended 2 - 3 weeks in advance, but if you pop by late you may be lucky enough to grab a vacated bar seat.
32 Rue Maufaux, Beaune
Pigeon, La Lune
Cave Madeline - Lunch/Dinner
Sitting down for a long, slow, boozy meal is a quintessentially French experience. Cave Madeline is the perfect place for such a répas. The ever-changing menu offers a seasonal fair with several options for entrée, plat, dessert or a chef-tasting menu in the evenings. The wine list carries over 500 references - with both big names and new discoveries. This is a place to sit with friends, eat slowly and enjoy beautiful bottles. Reservations recommended.
8 Rue du Faubourg Madeleine, Beaune
L’Arche des Vins - Wine Bar
In a city overcrowded with wine bars, the newly opened L’Arche des Vins (2022) is a wine bar that works. The carte des vins boasts over 2,000 references ranging from simple to extraordinary - with prices ranging from affordable to bank-breaking. An open outdoor patio with wicker furniture, soft lighting and attractive plant life creates an urban oasis. The bar also offers simple eats, a cocktail menu and efficient service. Come early or late, open till 2 am most nights.
3 Rue Poterne, Beaune
Bottles, L’Arche des Vins
Le Publican (Mister Brown) - Pub
Le Publican is the closest thing Beaune has to a pub, albeit a very nice pub. While it is socially acceptable to order a beer here, the wine list is thoughtfully curated and ever-changing. A small terrace overlooks the Bouzaise River, making this a perfect spot for a Sunday afternoon apéro. All major sporting events are observed here. On game days expect lots of singing, shouting and general hurrah. Small share plates are available - don’t miss out on the delectable house-made terrine.
44 Rue Maufoux, Beaune
AVintures - Wine Shop
A small vin nature focused wineshop located on rue Faubourg-Saint-Nicolas. The owner, Thomas, speaks both French and English and is easily the friendliest caviste in town. Thomas is always helpful, curious and knowledgeable - gently guiding you to new producers, appellations and grapes you may not have otherwise reached for. Tastings are offered on Saturdays and this can make for a great final stop after your market tour.
20 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Nicolas, 21200 Beaune
Park Bouzaise
A picturesque little park with a backdrop of the Beaune vineyards. A looping trail walks around the park's central pond and small boats are available for rental if you prefer to paddle. The park is spotted with shaded benches and picnic tables. There is also a play park, vintage carousel and adjoining food stand for snacks. A small animal farm in the park's furthest corner is home to rabbits, chickens, goats and a pigeon cage. But, beware of the free-roaming ducks and swans - they have been known to bite.
Marché de Samedi
No Beaune list is complete without mentioning the Saturday morning market. The marché takes place in the centre of Beaune, at Les Halles, just in front of the Hospice. This is truly the weekly town social. You’ll see a mix of famous winemakers, tourists and locals alike. Stands of produce, oysters, Bresse chicken, every cheese imaginable, fresh roast coffee, baked goods, flowers… what more can I say? Go early, take your time, bring cash and make sure to stop for a little drink somewhere after.
Special mention…
Bistrot des Falaises (Saint Romain)
This is hands down my favourite restaurant in Burgundy. The ever-changing menu consistently delivers outstanding plates for reasonable prices. Ingredients are sourced locally and the wine list stays close to Saint-Romain. The room is comfortable and unpretentious, and host Jordan always makes you feel at home as he rambles on in extensive detail about the daily menu. Worth the drive!
Place de la mairie, Saint-Romain
Dishes, Bistrot des Falaises
One of the greatest things about Burgundy is that new restaurants and wine bars are constantly opening. I’ll update this list every few months as I find new favourite spots. In the comments below, let me know if I’ve missed any of your favourite places!
Santé!